Stunt bike set up (for begginers)

[Juca]

1. SICKINNOVATIONS



CRASH CAGES :

PRICES :


HONDA :

Honda 929 Cage : 219.99 USD
03-06 Honda 600RR Cage : SAME
2007 Honda 600RR Cage : SAME
Honda 900RR Cage : SAME
Honda 954 Cage : SAME
Honda F4/F4i Cage : SAME
Honda F2-F3 Cage : SAME



KAWASAKI :03-04 Kawasaki 636 Cage : 219.99 USD
05-06 Kawasaki 636 Cage : SAME
00-02 Kawasaki Zx6 Cage : SAME



SUZUKI :

96-00 Suzuki Gsxr 600/750 Cage / Also fits 97-99 Gsxr 750 : 219.99 USD
01-03 Suzuki Gsxr 600 Cage / Also fits 00-03 750 : SAME
04-05 Suzuki Gsxr 600/750 Cage : SAME
06-07 Suzuki Gsxr 600/750 Cage : SAME
05-06 Suzuki Gsxr 1000 Cage : SAME



YAMAHA :

99-02 Yamaha R6 Cage : 219.99 USD
03-05 Yamaha R6 Cage : SAME





12 O CLOCK BARS :



HONDA :

99-00 Honda F4i 12 Bar - Black : 99.99 USD
01-02 Honda F4i 12 Bar - Black : SAME
93-99 Honda 900RR 12 Bar - Black : SAME
Honda 954 12 Bar - Black : SAME
Honda 929 12 Bar - Black : SAME
03-04 Honda 600RR 12 Bar - Black : 124.99 USD



KAWASAKI :

03-04 Kawasaki 636 12 Bar - Black : 99.99 USD
05-06 Kawasaki 636 12 Bar - Black : 99.99 USD
05-06 AC Farias 636 12 Bar - Black : 124.99 USD


OTHER PRODUCTS U CAN FIND : www.sickinnovations.com




2. POWERS STUNT WORKS :



CRASH CAGES :

PRICES :

299.00 + $34.00 (around)






OTHER PRODUCTS U CAN FIND : www.powersstuntworx.com



STUNT SPROCKETS :

gearing info :

What is Pitch?

Pitch is quite simply the thickness of the chain and sprockets. 520/525/530 520 being the thinnest and 530 being the thickest. 520 has the advantage of being lighter weight and increasing performance just from the loss of rotating mass. However, the thinner profile does have a shorter life expectancy than a thicker 525 or 530. Likewise, 530 provides a stronger, longer life expectancy but can increase rotating mass. Generally 600’s will use 520 or 525 while 1000’s will use 530.


Where do I start?

We recommend anybody looking to run larger sprockets starts with the back. Down -1 tooth in the front is roughly equal to +3 in the back. Also, anytime more than one or two teeth are added in the back a new chain will be required to fit. For this reason it is generally easier to start gearing with the back. Pick a rear sprocket and chain that will fit your riding style. As you progress or decide to change your gearing it is much easier to change the front sprocket to accommodate. This eliminates the need for new costly rear sprockets and chains. (Ex. Adding +3 to the gearing can be accomplished for $15 with a -1 front sprocket vs. a +3 rear sprocket and new chain.)


What gearing is right for me?

+5 – Provides a good place to start for anybody looking to get a little more into the stunts without sacrificing street riding or too much top speed. Will gain some torque/acceleration while losing roughly 10% of top speed.


+10 - Provides good amounts of power for slower wheelies while still having decent street riding. Will gain good torque/acceleration while losing roughly 20% of top speed.


+15 – Provides great power for technical slow wheelies. Street riding will be reduced to moderation in the city limits. No highways. Will gain great torque/acceleration while losing roughly 30% of top speed.


+20 - Provides huge power for anything and everything technical. Street riding will be reduced to just parking lots. Not for beginners. Will gain huge torque/acceleration while losing roughly 40% of top speed.


+25 or bigger – Ridiculous… but fun. Go big.



Handbrake kits : (must be radial cilinder)

www.magura.com

www.fullthrottleinc.net

also u can buy and other cages / stunt parts (other brands) :


www.freestyleingenuity.com

www.racing905.com

www.tygersharkcages.com

And OMR subcage! (The best stunt sub cages).

[Juca]

OMR SUBCAGES available:

Honda

• CBR F4i - 01, 02, 03 <<< click here, will also fit the single seat style with minor mods
• CBR 954- all years
• CBR 929- all years <<< click here
• CBR 600RR - 03 , 04 , 05 , 06 , 07 , 08<<< click here

Kawasaki

• zx6r/rr (636) - 03, 04, 05, 06 07 08<<< click here

Suzuki

• GSXR 600/750 -00, 01, 02, 03, 04, 05<<<click here
• GSXR 1000 -01, 02, 03, 04

Yamaha

• R6 - 03, 04, 05 <<< click here
• R6s (old body style) - 06, 07, 08

$175 Shipped,pay pal accepted.



Tech

• The 03-06 CBR 600RR , 03-05 Yamaha R6 ,03 04 gsxr 1000 and the f4i pegs are lowered and moved back and out for better peg position!

• The 01-03 GSXR 600 and 750 have the pegs moved out two inches because of the big tail section

• THE 07 600RR pegs are located 2-1/2 inches lower and 3 inches wider (Than stock)

• All other omr subframe cage models are in the stock location except they are rotated on their axis so they don't fold up unless you fold them up, this also puts your foot on the grippy part of the peg during a wheelie.

• omr subcages are available for all makes and models but only the ones listed above are available for shipping

click here to contact >> old man roger


The original folding peg subcage!


>>click here to see why i only sell folding peg subcages<<




Don't ride on this :




And don't wait till this happens!





Get one of these instead!





Below is a picture that explains why i only sell folding peg subcages
if you look close you can see that the tabs were ripped right off this subframe and that is what can happen if the pegs on your subcage are solid ...folding pegs are the way to go.

[Juca]

USEFULL LINKS :

www.haibikeshop.com- Bike shop (here u can find all stunt parts).

www.vortexracing.com - Sprockets and chains.

www.thrustcompany.com -Sprockets and chains.

www.hoheydesigns.com - Here you can find dual caliper brackets.



About dual caliper bracket :

OEM style dual caliper brackets used for off road motorcycle freestyle “stunt riding”. Machined out of aircraft grade weld able 6061 aluminum, not cheap quality by far. Don’t bother welding two cast aluminum brackets together because if you know anything about cast aluminum it’s cheap and not very weld able as far as strength or safety. Not reliable. You will need a 75” brake line if your running MX (dirt bike style) handlebars or at least a 66” brake line if you have stock clip on’s. Brackets are designs to operate using bike specific rear calipers. Note, on certain model motorcycles such as the 05-07 model 636’s we recommend using a 80” line if you have MX bars. We recommend that you measure the distance from your hand brake master cylinder to the very back edge of your swingarm to be certain of line length. These brackets are precisionaly machined and will easily last a lifetime.

[Juca]

SOMETHING ABOUT BRAKE FLUID :


The function of brake fluid is to provide an incompressible medium to transmit the driver’s foot pressure on the brake pedal through the master cylinder(s) to the calipers in order to clamp the friction material against the discs. The foot pressure is multiplied by the mechanical pedal ratio and the hydraulic ratio of the master cylinders, booster (if used) and caliper piston(s).

This is a simple concept. When fresh, all brake fluids are virtually incompressible and the system works as well as its mechanical and hydraulic design allows. There are, however significant problems. Overheated brake fluid can (and will) boil in the caliper. Boiling produces gas bubbles within any boiling fluid. Gas is compressible so boiling brake fluid leads to a “soft” brake pedal with long travel. In extreme cases overheated brake fluid necessitates “pumping the brake pedal” in order to get a pedal at all.



You must change stock brake fluid,and buy some brake fluid with high boiling point!


Brembo Racing - LCF 600+ Brake Fluid :

Brembo LCF 600+ has been specifically formulated to provide the highest performance under all racing conditions. It has an independently proven low compressibility at high temperatures.This fluid is used by the world’s best including Moto GP teams Ducati and Honda and Formula 1 team Ferrari amongst many other world and national teams.

Compared to other leading brake fluids (AP600 and CastrolSRF) the Brembo Fluid is designed to give more than:

• 10% reduction in compressibility at 180’C.
• Highest dry boiling point at 316’C (601’F).
• Wet boiling point at 204’C (399’F).
• Brembo LCF600+ is compatible with other high performance DOT 3 and DOT 4 racing brake fluids.
• 500ml bottle.

Pressure bleeding do's and don'ts :

Pressure bleeding on its own is not necessarily a bad thing, but there are several steps one must take to ensure that the bleed event will result in an air-free brake system.
When we talk about pressure bleeding, we are referring to the process in which we pour our brake fluid into a pressure vessel, hook up a pressure source, and run the now pressurized fluid directly into the master cylinder reservoir. One by one the caliper bleeder screws are opened to allow the pressurized fluid to flow through the system until all of the old fluid has been purged. Simple, right?
Well yes, but beware of imitations – not all pressure bleeders are created equal. The professional units (the type you can consider using) separate the pressurized brake fluid from the pressure source (air) using a flexible rubber diaphragm. In this fashion, the pressurized air is kept from forcing its way into the fluid. As we all know, air and fluid should be kept as far apart as possible.
This brings us to the imitations. There seem to be a rash of products available lately that claim to be pressure brake bleeders at a fraction of the cost of the professional units. Like most things that sound too good to be true, well, it’s exactly that.
Like the professional units, these imitations contain a pressure vessel into which new brake fluid is poured. However, in order to pressurize the fluid, an integral pump handle is cycled to build the pressure inside the vessel without any measures taken to separate the pressurized air from the fluid. For those of you who have ever bought a $19.95 do-it-yourself potted plant and bug sprayer from Home Depot you get the idea.
Of course, having pressurized air in contact with the brake fluid will certainly force the fluid through the system just as effectively as the high-zoot professional unit, but as an added bonus we are stuffing air into the brake fluid at the same time. Talk about an unwanted surprise!
While it may not be visible to the naked eye (air can actually entrain itself in the fluid as to be visually undetectable) it’s there right along with all of the nasty moisture trapped inside of it. This of course begs the question: if you are stuffing air and water contaminated fluid into your brake system, why even bother bleeding it in the first place?
Naturally there will be those who argue that the amount of air in question is not important enough to worry about, but think about this for a moment: nearly every automotive manufacturer stores their bulk brake fluid in large containers which are subjected to a constant VACUUM. Talk about an expensive process! If just storing your fluid under regular atmospheric conditions isn’t good enough to keep air and water out, just imagine what shoving 30psi worth of compressed air on top of it is doing.


Brake fluids (boiling points) :

Fluid name , Dry point (first number) , Wet boiling point (second number) :


AP SUPER 600 : Dry boiling point (590 F) - Wet (410 F)

CASTROL SRF : 590 F - 518 F

NEO SUPER DOT 610 : 610 F - 421 F

MOTUL RACING 600 : 593 F - 420 F

MOTUL DOT 5.1 : 509 F - 365 F

ATE SUPER BLUE : 536 F - 392 F

VALVOLINE : 503 F - 343 F

SYNPOWER : 503 F - 329 F

ATE SL : 500 F - 311 F

CASTROL LMA : 450 F - 288 F

AP 551 : 528 F - 374 F

[Juca]

HANDLE BAR CONVERSATION :


1. You need new triple clamp.

2. U can get longer lines (handbrake line and clutc) sure you can use old lines.


Ttiple clamps :





DB handlebars :


RENTHAL :





RENTHAL DB SIZE CHART : http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...IZE-CHART.ASPX



TAG METALS HANDLE BARS :





MOOSE :






Handlebar info :

[Juca]

ACERBIS HEADLIGHTS :

Blitz :




Forge new trails with the revolutionary Blitz headlight! Incredible design, functionality and aerodynamics fused by Acerbis’ R&D department equate to a product without compromise.


• Stacked headlight design in state of art

• Dual 35W halogen lamps for great illumination

• Central heat-resistant unit accepts bulbs up to 50W

• 10° Pencil and 38° Flood

• Will fit virtually any motorcycle


Availble in:

CR Red, YZ Blue, Black, Green, KTM Orange and Yellow.



DHH :




Dual 12 volt, 35 watt, tungsten halogen bulbs

50mm diameter glass lenses with high-gloss reflectors

Pencil beam directs the light straight out with a 10° arc

Flood beam directs the light closer to the bike over a 38° arc



Diamond :




The Acerbis Diamond headlight represents a revolution in headlight design. The Diamond was the first headlight to include two halogen bulbs in an aftermarket headlight and now it has three! The Diamond is equipped with polycarbonate lenses and a polypropylene number plate above the headlight. This headlight can be adapted to fit a wide range of dirt bikes and some street bikes.

• Mounts with two plastic brackets and four rubber straps

• Fits virtually any motorcycle

• Two center bulbs are 36° floods and the third bulb is the 10° pencil, giving a broad field of illumination.



Cyclope :


Nylon surround

Polypropylene nuberplate

Polycarbonate reflector

Cast aluminium headlight body and tempered glass lens.

TUV certified. DOT,ECE and SAE approved.

Ajustable angle.

Universal fitting with anti-vibration rubber strips.

Removable number plate

Available in a wide variety of colours.Protective, transparent polycarbonate lens cover supplied for off -road use.Heat resistant plastic headlight support.Wiring accessories provided.lLow beam fitted with 55w halogen bulb, low beam /side light fitted with 55w halogen bulb and 5w incandescent bulb.

[Juca]

EASY PULL CLUTCH LEVERS :

MSR PRO RAPTOR :



Adjustable cable feature let you choose from 3 positions according to your clutch pull preferance and riding style.

The top position gives you increased cable pull; The middle position is the same as a standard lever assembly; the bottom position provides an easy pull (325% less effort)

The cable adjuster is an anodized pivoting regulator that is easy to adjust and eliminates cable drag in all 3 positions

PRICE : 47.00 USD


MOOSE E-Z PULL :



A simple two-position pulley allows the clutch to have an extremely easy pull.

PRICE : 43.89 USD


FTP E-Z PULL :



FTP easy pull clutch levers have been designed with 3 different settings that allows you to adjust the feeling of your clutch to suit your personal needs (Hard to Soft)


PRICE : 65.00 USD

[Juca]

SICKINNOVATIONS NEW BAR :

It is a base that always stays on the bike and has interchangeable plates between round bar and flat. You can also buy just a replacement loop or flat bar if you ever wear them out. Nuts are welded to the back so all you need is an allen wrench and a few seconds to swap them out or just remove it and pop your taillight in for street killin.




www.sickinnovations.com

[Juca]

SICK INNOVATIONS STREET CAGE.

Comes with aluminum sliders.

Remember this isnt a full stunt cage so dont expect it to hold up like one.

[Juca]

SICK INNOVATIONS "STUNT STEP" :







www.sickinnovations.com

[Juca]

IMPAKTECH f4i cage :












Cage price : 250 $ (Including Shipping)

CAGE WILL FIT JUST ON SF BIKE (STREET FIGHTER)

FOR MORE INFO ABOUT THIS CAGES CONTACT : SON DOOBY (click it)

[Juca]

SICKINNOVATIONS r6 subframe :

[Juca]

SICKINNOVATIONS "Granade Hell Guards":

[Juca]

HOW TO POLISH ALUMINIUM :

You'll need:

* All-purpose metal polish

* 600- and 900-grit wet/dry sand:

* Oven cleaner

* Rubber gloves and eye protection

* A clean, soft rag

* Rotary tool with buffing bits (optional)

* Hand drill (optional)



(1) STRIP THE ANODIZING

To remove anodizing, I use spray-on oven cleaner, straight from the grocery store (I like no-fume Easy-Off the best). Follow the warnings on the can, work in a well-ventilated area and wear gloves and eye protection when you use oven cleaner; it's nasty stuff. Place the parts on newspaper or on a piece of cardboard to protect your shop's work area from overspray. Spray the oven cleaner onto the parts, covering them completely. Let them sit for a few minutes to allow the cleaner to do its job, then scrub them with soap and water to remove the oven cleaner. Repeat this process until all the anodizing is gone.


(2) SANDING

Your parts won't took so good at this point, but don't worry; we're about to fix that. Head to the automotive paint-supply store and grab some fine, 600- and 900-grit wet/dry sandpaper and use it to clean up the aluminum's surface before you add polishing compound. Parts such as bulkheads and suspension arms are a little more timeconsuming than round parts because they have lots of surfaces that need to be sanded, and everything must be sanded by hand. Round parts are a lot easier; place them in a drill, and sand the part while it's spinning (use a low-speed setting, and coat the sandpaper with oil to prevent it from becoming clogged) Completely sand the parts with 600-grit sandpaper until all the foreign matter has been removed from the surface, then switch ti 900-grit and repeat the process. You may have to wrap the sandpaper around a small stick or a wooden dowel to get into tight spaces. Finish by rubbing the part all over with fine steel wool.



(3) POLISHING

You might be happy with the way your parts look at this point, but don't get too excited yet; they're going to look even better. Now is
the time to do the final polishing with aluminum polish. I like Blue Magic metal polish creme, but any all-purpose metal polish will work well. For complex parts, use a rotary tool with buffing wheels of various sizes to polish the surfaces of the aluminum. I like to hand-apply the polish to the part with a damp rag before I use the buffing wheel so that I can apply the polish evenly. To prevent the polish from being dried by the heat generated by the friction between the buffing wheel and the aluminum, run the rotary tool at low speed. For the round parts, just leave the part In the drill chuck and apply the polish with a damp rag while It's turning. Be careful when you come close to the drill chuck; you don't want to get your fingers or the rag caught in the drill. When you've fin[shed the polishing, wash the part with soap and water to remove any
polishing-compound residue.
Now that wasn't so bad, was it? A brightly polished finish does take a little time, but it's time well spent. To preserve the bright took, you can maintain the finish with touch-ups of metal polish or seal the parts with spray-on clearcoat (check the spray-paint section at the hardware store). If you don't seal or maintain the polished finish, the bare aluminum will oxidize and become dull, but you can always buff it back to a shine again.

[Juca]

HOW TO PREP AND PAINT YOUR BIKE :

PAINT AND PREP SUPPLIES :

Reducer

Plastic Filler

Flowable Putty

Epoxy Sealer

Epoxy Primer

Base color Paint

Clear Coat

80,120,400,600,1500,2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper


IMPROVISED PAINT BOOTH

If you're like me, you don't have the luxury of a down-draft spray booth in your shop. Here's what I did. I cleaned out a storage room that's attached to the back of my shop. I lined the walls with white poly, and placed a variable speed fan in the window. I then went around with a roll of duct tape and sealed the perimeter of the fan to the surrounding poly on the walls. Now onto the lights. After the first time you try painting something, you'll quickly learn just how critical good lighting is. In fact when it comes to lighting, the brighter your paint area the better. A buddy gave me two four-tube florescent light fixtures, which I hung on opposite sides of my new spray booth. It's good to have reflective walls. Lining the walls with white poly not only saves your walls, but it's also quite reflective.



SAFETY

Before I continue, I want to stress safety. It's a very bad I idea to paint in a room that's attached to your house. In fact, it may not be legal in some jurisdictions. Also, paint fumes are not only super toxic, they're highly flammable. Make sure your fixtures are wired properly, and that your fixtures are fully encased with lens covers attached. Last but not least, make sure you have a good quality respirator with the correct filters for the kind of paint you're using.



PAINT EQUIPMENT

For tools you'll need at least two spray guns, a air regulator with a water trap, a compressor, and of course some air hose. As aforementioned, you'll need 2 paint guns... one for painting primer, and another for painting base and clear coats.



PREP FOR PAINT

Be certain your fuel and oil tanks are pressure tested and leak free before you start. Ideally, it's good to sandblast your metal parts, especially if they have old paint on them. If you choose not to sandblast, make sure to sand them really thoroughly and wipe them down with a non oil-based cleaner prior to starting the job.
The next step is to apply filler to the low spots and any trouble areas. It's a matter of personal preference, but I like to spray a coat of epoxy primer prior to spraying on the base coat. This gives a nice base for the filler to adhere to. Prepare your filler in small amounts (it sets up fast) and apply it smoothly and evenly onto your part.
After the filler has dried, sand it smooth with 80 grit and look it over for any low spots or chips, then fill and sand again. After the necessary rounds of filler and sanding are finished, it's time to prime.
Spray on a couple of coats of epoxy primer. After the primer has dried, get a spray can of black paint and very lightly spray it over your part. This is the guide coat. The light black coat will show any ripples, low spots or defects in your handy work. To repair the problem areas that the guide coat exposed, you'll want to use flowable putty instead of filler. Apply the putty in thin even coats, then smooth it down with 80 grit sandpaper (wrapped around a rubber sanding block). Once you get the high spots leveled down, smooth it down even more with 120 grit, then finishing it with 400 grit. You're now ready for the last round of primer. Once the primer is dry, sand it thoroughly with 400 grit to give it a toothy surface for the base coat to stick to. I like to spray on a coat of epoxy sealer just prior to spraying the base colour coat. In addition to providing a ideal surface for applying the base color, it also prevents any solvents from coming through and causing bubbles in your clear coat. Make sure to follow the paint manufacturers spec sheets with regards to mixing times, mixing ratios and painting temperature. Failure to following the instructions will cause you much grief...believe me.



BASE COAT/CLEAR COAT
Now comes the color coat. Lay down the colour coats as per your paint manufacturer's spec sheet. Next comes the clear. After the first round of clear has dried, wet sand it down with 600 grit. You'll notice rows of ridges appear in the clear as you sand. Keep sanding until the clear is even and the ridges are gone. If you're painting graphics on, now is the time to put them on. After applying your graphics, cover them with another round of clear. It may take one or more rounds of clear to completely bury the graphics. Be sure to wet sand flat with 600 grit between rounds of clear. After the last round of clear has been sprayed, sand it down flat with 600 grit like before. When it's nice and smooth, finish it off with 1500 grit. If you want to get it even more silky smooth, go for a final round of 2000 grit.



POLISHING

Now for the gratifying part. The final step is to polish it to a mirror finish. You'll need a variable speed polisher, a buffing pad, and some polishing compound. There are many different kinds of buffing compound available. Your local automotive supply store will be able to recommend a good one.